84 - 89 300ZX (Z31) Rear & 87 - 89 Front Tension Rod  Bushing Removal

Before using these instructions
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To remove the rear suspension assembly, refer to Haynes #1137 "Nissan 300ZX, 1984 thru 1989 Automotive Repair Manual", chapter 10 Suspension and steering.

The images shown here will be a mix of both front and rear bushing removal. It should take about 10 to 15 minutes per bushing.

Note, it is not necessary to drill out the rubber from the  front bushing, as the whole bushing can be punched out with ease, as you  will see describe later .                 


This is what you want.

RB-0042.jpg (18682 bytes)



RB-0043.jpg (11100 bytes)



This is how you start.

RB-0028.jpg (23489 bytes)

Attach member securely.


FB_0002.jpg (21282 bytes)

Remove offset of cutting teeth.

Hole saw dimensions
Front = 2" (51mm)
Rear = 1-3/16 (30mm)


RB-0029.jpg (15525 bytes)

At first, I thought I needed to protect the inside of the sleeve from the drill bit. The piece of tubing you see covering the bit fell out on the second try. It was then that I discovered that if I was careful it was not needed. For the front, because the removed parts are discarded, careful removal is not a concern.  


FB_0001.jpg (34844 bytes)

I used a Milwaukee 1/2 Magnum Hole Shooter for maximum torque. You will need to lubricate and cool the rear bushing with a spray of water, as they are solid rubber.     


RB-0032.jpg (17943 bytes)

Inner sleeve removed.


RB-0035.jpg (14998 bytes)

Clamped for wire brushing.


RB-0037.jpg (16485 bytes)

I tried the wire brush on my bench grinder, but it was a little too fine. The coarse brush on my right angle made quick work of removing the remainder of the rubber.  


RB-0038.jpg (23734 bytes)

There was still a little rubber left inside each of the journal housings. Using a propane torch, I heated the rubber and with the knife, seen in the image below, cut and scraped out the last of the rubber.


fetlingknife.jpg (14048 bytes)

This knife is called a "Fettling Knife". It is similar to a boning knife; long, straight, slender and ridged.


FB_0015.jpg (15595 bytes)

120 grit flapper wheel in a diegrinder for fine cleaning.


BELOW; front bushing removal

FB_0003.jpg (13872 bytes)

This is what the front tie rod end looks like if you drill out the rubber. The inner part is a sleeve that the bushing is part of. This whole unit can be pushed out.

I live in the California where rust is not a real problem for the automotive enthusiast. For those living in regions where rust is a SLO, you may have to use a hydraulic press to remove the bushing assembly.


FB_0012.jpg (17603 bytes)


I loved that old TV series “MacGyver”.

I never throw anything away. This 2" pipe and cap was used a number of years ago on a home plumbing repair. It worked perfectly to remove the sleeves from the tension rod ends.


FB_0005.jpg (30543 bytes)

Resting the tie rod end on a carefully adjusted bench vice, to allow the sleeve to clear the jaws, two light taps from my 2.5 lb. sludge hammer, made quick work of the removal.


FB_0019.jpg (12787 bytes)

Wire brushed and cleaned up, the bushing housing is ready for a coat of rust inhibitive primer.

I use a two part solvent reducible zinc chromate epoxy primer on all bare metal parts. Then top coat
with an industrial two part acrylic urethane.

If you have access to powder coating, use that, however, remember proper removal of ALL rust is the only way to insure a long lasting finish.




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